Attitude is key. Many chefs cook to show off. For them, cooking is pure competition, and what they’re chasing is recognition.
Others—most, almost all—cook so that the people who eat are happy. It’s not just a maternal or paternal, domestic attitude. The pursuit of happiness is the goal of humankind and is enshrined in some constitutions. I’m not flying high. In fact, I’m razing the earth of our beautiful humanity.
Some time ago, I posted an article on the concept of the “scalco” in Renaissance courts. Bartolomeo Scappi describes the professional profile of a scalco.
In his work published in 1570, he explains to us what the qualities of a chef should be, or rather, of a “scalco”, as the person in charge of the great kitchens of popes and kings during the Renaissance was called.
In addition to professional skills, Bartolomeo Scappi believes human qualities are fundamental.
Assigning everyone their place at the table, knowing how to give each person the right cut of meat, is not just a matter of etiquette: or rather, etiquette, good manners, and good manners are not superfluous actions, much less mere performance. Every action has its reason, be it logical, practical, or healthy, and is not merely convenience or flattery.
The scalco had to be able to communicate with everyone, which meant knowing foreign languages, but also interacting politely with the guests, who were often princes, dukes, and bankers. He also had to be a bit of a psychologist and be able to please everyone; he had to take into account the guests’ dietary and medical needs while maintaining confidentiality. Everyone had to enjoy the table and leave happy.
Therefore, the attitude toward happiness in the kitchen and at the table is not new, nor is it “unprofessional.” The connotation of “competition” = professionalism is a recent acquisition.
I know all this talk seems bombastic and unrealistic to those who work in restaurant kitchens, often underpaid, under-stressed, and under-appreciated. Unfortunately, the issue here extends to social—and political—fronts that can’t be discussed in a few lines.
Instead, I want to focus on personal qualities because, while it’s true that they’re genetic, with the right amount of gradualness and the right incentives—like fair treatment at work—they too can change. A goofy smile on my lips as I walked down the street, knowing I had nothing to smile about, gradually changed my thoughts, and so did my attitude and the events that followed. I coined the concept of one-to-one correspondence: if good thoughts bring about a smile, perhaps a smile can also bring about good thoughts.
In the world of food and cooking, this is even more evident: I’m sure each of you has heard your mother, wife, brother, or friend cursing someone who made them nervous and that it’s their fault the dish didn’t turn out as well as other times.
So let’s get back to the point: attitude is crucial. It’s “how you approach things” that determines the outcome of what you do.
photo in cover by Lauren Cranford.
In the foto: Lauren Cranford, Elena Arzak (best chef od the world 2012) and me.
What made Elena Arzak recognized as the best chef, was her passion, dedication, kindness, warmth; qualities that she was able to transmit to all those who work with her: the attitude of happiness at the table.
Marcella Ansaldo © 2026
Photos by Marta Mariuz © 2026