It is not exactly the easiest one to do.
Above all, we need the raw material and, if we are not in Sicily, Sardegna or Giglio Island, even if the season – the end if the summer – is the right one , the towns with markets where we can find them are really a few.
I go to pick them personally. To do it, I need a long reed with a hook or a tube on top to get to the highest fruits without getting too close to the plant. Also the clothes must be suitable to this. Yes, because the plant is spiteful: the tiny thorns fly and they slip everywhere. At the moment it is not notice-able, but after a little bit, all the body will be stinging by invisible spines.
After the adventorous gathering, also the jam itself presents some difficulties.
The first one: the micro-thorns grouped in small “pois” on the surface of the fruit. Reason for which they must soak in cold water – as you see in the photo of the cover – for at least an entire day. In this way, still wearing gloves and with the help of a paring knife, the thin skin can be ripped off.
You will notice, cutting them, that inside the pulp is soft, gelatinous and full of seeds. This inner “heart” is coated with another layer of pulp..
The second step is, still with the help of a knife, to pull off the outside layer of pulp.
The “external” pulp – you see in the photo – must be cut inthin strips or small cubes and kept separated from the inside pulp.
The inside pulp must be weighed. I had about one kilo ( 2,2 Lb) . Let’s calculate one quarter of it with sugar ( for me 250 gr , that is 8 oz) . Cut the inside pulp in big chunks and cook it with the sugar. Don’t bring to the end of cooking: as the sugar is melted and the consistency still liquid, pass it throught the food mill to eliminate the seeds.
Meanwhile, also the outside pulp must be cooked, with the same percentage of sugar. I had about 250 gr – 8 oz -, so 80 gr of sugar – 2 1/2 oz
The two preparations must be mixed and then brought to the end of their cooking. Don’t exceed 110°c – 230 F, to avoid the cristallization of the sugar. At the end of the cooking the temperature should be between 105 and 108° c – 221 – 226 F-
If you are thinking to cook the whole fruits in the same pot, you have to know that it is a false shortcut, as it would be very hard to pass it through the food mill.
In this way it is quicker and the texture will be perfect: gelatinous with a few chunks to bite. .
The jan has a particolar flavor, almost exotic. it matches perfectly with the almond cookies. It used to be one of the most required desserts in my restaurant Le Tamerici of Giglio Island. Who knows…. if someone who is reading now, would remember…. the recipe of them in the next article.