I have always considered Orecchiette Pugliesi one of the most difficult shapes to make. In the small towns of Puglia it is common to see women sitting outside their front doors, in front of a small table, moving their hands and fingers with such speed that it is impossible to understand their evolutions.
Slowly I was shown that once you have made cylinders out of the dough, you cut off a small segment, place it on top of your finger, pull it so that it forms a hood, then peel it off the finger and turn it inside out like a sock – you can use the finger of the other hand – so that you have a folded edge just like an ear.
Regardless of the slowness with which I have attempted this exercise for years, the results have never been remotely good. The inner surface of the orecchietta must be rough, rustic, slightly flaked. This texture has the ability to retain the sauce. Nothing. I just couldn’t do it for years. Maybe you have to have a particular DNA or be born in those beautiful areas of Italy.
So I gave up, until one day, during a trip to Puglia, I came across a man making orecchiette outside his front door in Alberobello.
He too quickly, but with a different method.
Paolo mentre mi spiega le Orecchiette
However, he first explained that, to reach these results, many, many tests were needed, especially on the right consistency of the dough, which obviously cannot be too hard – it could not be “pulled” – nor too soft – it would remain stuck.
Flour? No, it is durum wheat semolina mixed with hot water: Apulian durum wheat semolina, such as that of Altamura.
| Did you know that in Italy there are many varieties of both soft and hard wheat? They have similar nutritional values, but different organoleptic characteristics. Try making Apulian orecchiette with Altamura semolina, Sicilian bread with Tumminia wheat flour, Tuscan bread with Verna whole wheat flour. Dozens of examples could be listed: aromas of our food heritage. |
The dough must rest, to lose its elasticity. Elasticity is obtained by working it for a long time, in order to cause the “marriage” between the amino acids responsible for the formation of gluten. Together with gliadins and glutenins, the other amino acids also dance inside the dough and this causes the elasticity of the dough. Just let it rest and “everyone” will go to sleep: the dough will be relaxed and ready to be pulled and shaped.
You cut a piece and roll it up, a bit like you do with gnocchi. At this point the real shaping work begins and what is needed is a good balance between the inclination and pressure of the knife on the dough.
You need a round-tipped knife, not particularly sharp.
Cut a small segment, about 5 mm – 1/5 inch -, perpendicularly, then, without lifting the knife, tilt it obliquely and by pressing lightly “drag” the orecchietta, stretching it and giving it a rounded shape. The edges will fold by themselves, especilly if you hold a border with a finger.
They won’t come out right the first time, but it’s worth practicing: in the end, with this method, a couple of cylinders of dough are enough: after that the orecchiette will come out perfect.
Thanks Paolo. Since then, this is how I teach you how to make your masterful Orecchiette in our cooking classes at Gigliocooking!
Here is the recipe. Generally, the sauce is based on vegetables: broccoli, cauliflower, turnip tops are fine, but also Tuscan black cabbage ( Dino-Kale), as in the photo.
DOUGH FOR ORECCHIETTE FOR 4 PEOPLE
250 gr ( 8oz) double milled semolina
125 ml (1/2 cup) warm water
1 pinch of salt
Arrange the flour like a circle; pour water and salt in the center. Start beating with a fork, gradually gathering semolina at the edges. When the dough reaches a consistency that no longer “escapes” from the circle, gather it with a spatula and start kneading, always taking a little semolina at a time. In the end, the dough will be elastic and not very sticky. Let it rest so that it loses its elasticity and begin, perhaps in company, the work of shaping the orecchiette.
ORECCHIETTE PUGLIESI WITH BROCCOLI AND/OR CAULIFLOWER
Ingredients for per 4:
400 gr (14 oz) orecchiette
For the sauce:
½ cauliflower
300 gr (10 oz) broccoli
60 gr (2 oz) extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 hot chilli pepper
4 fillets of anchovies in olive oil
salt
60 gr (2 oz) Pecorino Romano, grated
Wash the cauliflower and broccoli and divide them into small florets.
Prepare a simple dressing: in a large pan, pour the extra virgin olive oil, add the chopped garlic, chili pepper and anchovies. Cook briefly, crushing the anchovies so that they dissolve. As soon as the garlic rises to the surface, remove the pan from the heat.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt.
Toss the orecchiette in it together with the broccoli and cauliflower.
Cook until the pasta is al dente, then drain all together, reserving a little of the cooking water.
Pour the orecchiette and vegetables into the pan, with a little of the cooking water and “jump” on the heat until the water from the bottom has been absorbed. Off the heat, mix in the cheese and a little of the cooking water, if necessary.
Serve immediately.