on the cover: the “Da Giggetto” restaurant in Rome.
The Coppedè district of Rome takes its name from its architect, Gino Coppedè. Built around 1920, the palaces are a compendium of the styles of the various eras of Rome: a large arch – the illusion of entrance to the neighborhood, which in reality can also be accessed from other streets, recalling the triumphal arches; the frames of imperial Rome, friezes and decorations that together give the impression here and there of the most essential Art Decò, as well as of redundant Baroque.
Coppedè is the synthesis of Rome.
The columns, the temples, the ancient walls, the great palaces, the fountains, the basilicas and lots and lots of sky, which opens up above its wide streets.
The inclination towards monuments is also found on the food streets.
Opposite the Tiber Island, what had been the Jewish Ghetto is teeming with taverns, restaurants and pastry shops. On the streets of sanpietrini – the squared cobblestones of Rome – in this period there are monuments of artichokes.
The artichoke is exposed, celebrated, almost better – at least in a more explicit and tangible way – than Neruda’s ode. It is there, a compact army of warrior flowers, to entice, to suggest that, now, on spring tables, there is no other more surprising delight – with its scales of flavours, from bitter to sweet – than itself.
Carciofi alla Giudia (fried whole, open like a blossoming flower, crunchy, delicious) and Carciofi alla Romana in every restaurant in the Ghetto, Testaccio, Trastevere.
Mandatory is the use of Roman artichokes.
For the Carciofi alla Romana, having overcome the difficulty of cleaning the artichoke, the recipe is simple: here it is:
Ingredients for 4
4 big Roman artichokes
60 gr ( 2 oz) extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves
2 tbs minced parsley
8 minced mint leaves
2 optional salty anchovies
Salt
1 lemon juice
Clean the artichokes discarding the outer leaves. Peel the heart. Soak them in water and lemon to prevent them from turning black.
With a zigzag movement, pressing the top of the artichokes with your thumb, open them. Remove the hair inside with a teaspoon.
Chop the garlic and mix with mint and parsley. Add the optional anchovies, minced.
Stuff the artichokes.
Put them upside down in a pan with olive oil. Pour a cup of water. Salt a little, being careful if you used anchovies.
Put a lid on and cook until soft.
Two tricks recently learned in Rome:
- when stuffing the artichokes with the chopped herbs, rub the inner leaves with the fingertips wet and dipped in fine salt
- cook the artichokes with a bread paper under the lid.
Marcella Ansaldo © 2023